A stay at Ahilya Fort is an experience straight out of the 18th century. Situated high above the banks of the sacred Narmada River, Ahilya Fort was the capital of one of India's celebrated women rulers-Ahilya Bai Holkar.
Her fortress has been converted into a guest residence of discrete charm, where guests can appreciate surroundings, which have not changed since Ahilya Bai.
Her Wada palace is simple and elegant; built in 1766, it is a typical example of the Maratha architecture of the period. The rooms retain the feeling of the epoch, while bringing guests modern conveniences, which ensure a comfortable stay.
Your host at Ahilya Fort is Prince Shivaji Rao Holkar, son of the last Maharajah of Indore. The Prince ensures that the pace of life at Ahilya Fort is leisurely, in keeping with his wish to offer his guests an oasis of calm and repose. He is a reputed chef and gourmet; author of a book of recipes from the Maharajah's palaces, he personally oversees the kitchen. The tea you drink is from an exclusive tea garden in Darjeeling; coffee from Coorg is specially roasted for Ahilya Fort's guests. Breakfast buffet is served in the ramparts of the fort, which command a spectacular view over the kilometer-wide Narmada River-a view unchanged from that which Ahilya herself looked out over, more than two hundred years ago. The ramparts of the fort were built in the 16th century, by the renowned Mughal emperor Akbar; Maheshwar itself has been continually inhabited for some 4000 years, Guests who wish to explore the fort and its many temples walk down to the riverside, and stroll along India's most beautiful ghats-a word, which in India suggests the French "quai".
Here are temples dedicated to various avatars of Lord Shiva, as well as crematory cenotaphs of the rulers of Indore. Although Maheshwar is a site revered by followers of Lord Shiva, all people who respect religion are welcome to enter any of the temples.Lunch is served in a cool covered courtyard, often a cold soup followed by pasta or light vegetarian food from Central India. Much of the food is organically grown on Ahilya Fort's nearby farm
Guests are encouraged to have a rest after the meal is over. The mid day sun is hot in the Narmada Valley, and the air-cooled rooms, fragrant with the smell of khas vetiver, provide a welcome respite. A boat trip in the afternoon takes you to Baneshwar Temple in the middle of the river, and a swim in the Narmada's cool and unpolluted waters. Baneshwar, according to ancient Hindu texts, is the centre of the universe: the axis, which connects the centre of the earth and the North Polar star, passes through this simple temple!
Ahilya Fort and Maheshwar are reached by a two-hour car ride from Indore.Indore is 45 minutes by plane from Bombay, 2 hours from Delhi, 30 minutes by plane from Bhopal, the state capitol. An overnight sleeper air-conditioned train journey connects Indore to both Delhi and Indore. The best season is October through March, with noon temperatures in the low 90s, and evenings cool; a sweater or shawl is needed only in December, January and February.
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